Sunday, August 12, 2012

Bali HI Jinks on Jalan Raja Ubud

Bali Hi Everyone, Welcome To Blog 2

I said I would cover the big funeral in Ubud in this blog, and I've been die-ing to tell you.

This was indeed a very impressive affair, the buildup to it no doubt taking weeks. I've found out that the Balinese calendar for these sort of events has to happen on certain days for spiritual reasons. Their calendar is influenced by both the sun and moon, their weeks are made up of 3,5,7 days which all run at the same time and even funerals have to wait for the correct day and time (some weeks have the same name for each day, go figure?).
This Royal funeral structure, 25 metres high, must have weighed quite a lot. It even had the casket at the very top with a live jockey directing the proceedings, with a wireless microphone. 
On the morning of the day I could hear PA announcements through the night (2 a.m.). Early morning rain clearied up on cue for the tourist digital cameras and iPhone onslaught later.

As usual the drummers pretty well set the scene and drove the energy of the proceedings.
I loved the rhythm of their "In Pause Mode" I recorded this hoping to attach it to this blog, but so far can't manage it.

The lady on the left, dressed in Bali womanly finery, low/high heels. The man in the middle in jandals, ceremonial sarong, black leather bomber jacket. The man on the right in standard military style clothing, black polished shoes. With this variety of dress I feel right at home.

They built it this way, then had to lift it and rotate it 90 degrees to load the royal corpse
which was quite a theatrical moment.

I was told it took 10 villagers with teams of people to carry the structure by manpower the 1km to its final stop, where it was lowered to a safer level and the whole structure burned.
Here is a short video on YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFVbYzB6Onk

I walk past this every day, ain't life grand.
Nice rice...no ice. Thanks! Planted by hand.




A sight for sore eyes. breakfast, prepared for cycling and going to the Sukawati Market. 
(or maybe it's the socks that made my eyes sore).

Remembering my last overseas cycling experience, I think, best get a helmet.  Three cycle hire shops later, this is not a common request in Bali, so I ignore my common sense (I do this all the time, it's my default setting). After setting the seat height on maximum off I head. Within 30 seconds of cycling, and a sharp swerve to the left, my rear bike tyre felt the edge of a passing car's tyre, so the Bali Cycling Gods are still looking after me.

From Ubud it's all downhill, gently to the Sukawati market, famous for its local produce on one side of the road. The other side of the road is equally famous as a tourist trap where you are pursued rather actively to buy everything from bone carvings, carved boxes, sarongs, folding eye glasses etc, and one needs to be prepared to haggle down the price, to what you think is an acceptable level. In my experience, if you get to that level, then the real price is about half that.

As this is the Funeral blog, here is another kind of die-ing
These are so cute, they'd go down a bomb in Japan
(not literally, I mean, or maybe they would?)

I was hassled by the tattoo guys on the way into buy some clothes after taking some photos of a young lad getting a henna tattoo on his upper arm, very much like sailors and Popeye, with the heart, (Wayan loves Nyoman, or similar) prominent.  Buying clothes was fun, as was the process of coming to the price. These locals are very sharp minded, with all the tools and tricks to keep you interested. Finally I got what I wanted, a matching top and trousers in orange, paying the huge sum of $6NZ (which was probably 3 times too much at least).
So how come I got this tattoo? The Olympics were in full swing and the tattoo reminded me of NZ. These are henna, painted on, and last 3 weeks. I don't really like to see tattoos on other people, unless it is their tradition (like our Maori culture) and wanted to check out how other people view me with a tattoo.

While I  sat in the shade in front of the Police booth, I googled up an image on my iPhone for Ketut to add to his Balinese style tattoo with apologies to Air New Zealand for the use of the Koru.

I was now a stationary object for all the sellers. One said they would do my other arm, while Ketut was doing his thing...."I give you good Prrrriiiccce" The policemen in the booth behind were encouraging me!
Here was the Balinese audience assembled watching this old pakeha getting a Tattoo.

90 minutes later this was the result, with my Haka attempt. I don't think any Kiwis were watching.

Back on the bike I stopped to watch carvers working on door panels. All day like this would be a very uncomfortable position for me, not so the Balinese. Note the excellent safety footwear, the same as all the building sites in Bali.

This is the small path to my rental in the ricefields Everything travels along this route, usually by wheelbarrow or carried on the head.  I've seen many opportunities for photographs, but been either too shy or too slow to capture them. Here is a 9ft wide tree going down a 6 foot pathway, it became a 7ft wide tree by the end of its journey.

This is one of the wheelbarrow ladies. I've taken to giving them the odd bit of help or shovelling sand into their barrow etc and intend to spend some time walking in their shoes for a while.
I'm told their daily wage is 35,000RPS ($5NZ)

A little sign I made to remind me as I practice.... 
Now there's a motto for everything.

Spotted this very long vegetable, it's called "Pare Belut" at less than 50cents NZ, will keep me going in stir fries for a week.

My Blessings soprano sax has been out of commission due to a screw vibrating out and right out of the case while I traveled the streets of Ubud. I tried local places, with no luck. Even Tom the German, who was going to Bangkok for a brief visit, also drew a blank. So a couple of emails to NZ and Danny came up with the answer - make one out of wood.
Luckily I had a little sanding board, to work on my reeds, which came in very handy.

It's working a treat, it did sort of self tap itself off the existing hole's thread.
 I've also added the extra security of a rubber band.


 So come on New Zealand...go for Gold!

See you at at Blog 3
Namaste
Jimu

Ps The locals like my new tattoo. The foreigners, have disgust or amazement on their face and look the other way. My own arm for the first day felt and looked like somebody else's.
It's wearing off a bit now.
It would be a big ask to live with this for life.
No way!
I also have no immediate plans to participate or star in any funerals in the near future.


Thursday, August 02, 2012

The Saxman returns to Bali


Bali Blog 2012 #1

Well here I am once again in the ricefields of Ubud, it was 6 years ago since my first visit to Bali and there have been some changes. I'll go into this later, but the trip started on 10th July, and with NZ's winter in full swing the idea of escaping to warmer climes really appealed! 

Air New Zealand is now flying direct into Denpasar, however it arrives at the not so friendly time of 12.30 a.m. The temperature at this time was a more than pleasant 26 deg. Luckily I went through visa and customs fast and into a taxi to my hotel down in Sanur on the coast. Shown to my room just before 2 a.m. by the Balanese porter, my body clock was on 6 a.m. NZ time, and not having slept much on the plane the porter then switches on the TV. I asked him to switch it off, then he asked if I want "Massage!" He had less chance than zero on that question. I was awake by 6 a.m. and a dog was barking in the hotel corridor. Oh yes, I said "now I remember Bali".
Walking around at 8 a.m. in shorts and tshirt along the beach at Sanur with its colourful boats was in stark contrast to the frosty days of Nelson NZ. My early morning stroll before the tourists had stirred, all the deck chairs are out on the beach ready to go. There is a strange mix of shanty town type food stalls right next to the up market beach frontage hotels with all the swagger and glitz of a Gold American Express card.

Heading back to the hotel for breakfast with a lazy morning in mind, I indulged in a couple of dips in the pool.

 
Oh I thought, what tough life I lead, lazing around by the pool, what would my father think about this. Read some, took photos, soaked up some sun etc - 4 hours of this was more than I could handle so off I headed north to Ubud.

I booked a taxi for Ubud which arrived mid afternoon, the ride only 23.3 kms stated by my iPhone app should have taken 33 minutes, but this taxi ride took nearly 90 minutes due to the schools coming out. Cars, motorbikes, trucks and bicycles were all competing for the same narrow road space.

Finally arriving in Jalan Raja Ubud (the main street) at 5.30pm with traffic and people everywhere I had an hour to wait, so what else could a saxman do? Yup I played the sax, gee it was fun, people were smiling, an American Jazz singer stopped on her motor bike to introduce herself, the Italian icecream shop owner (Fabio) across the road offered a free icecream when I finished (of course I refused - yeah right!). Tourists were putting money in my sax case and my accommodation contact Marco from Italy, who I'd booked 6 weeks ago to stay the first three days in Ubud, also turned up managing to get all my gear including sax case on the back of his little motorbike for the short ride to his place.

Marco is quite a character,  plays guitar and has always wanted to play the saxophone, so I gave him a blow. I was impressed by his sound, now he wants to find a saxophone.

Number one priority was to find a place to stay, this at the height of the tourist season, so I walked around the areas I rented in last time. The exact place was being rebuilt so therefore not available, but in  the near vicinity many new buildings and a lot in the process of being built. After lot of walking, many trips on the back of motorbikes being taken to possible houses to rent, all were not suitable or to my liking.  Following a little sign nailed to a post I found Sentana. A sweet little villa with 1 bed, kitchen, hot shower and bath, far enough way from other buildings not to bother other people with my saxophone playing. Still I'm sure all the surrounding neighbours know of me by now. I am competing with the sounds of building going on during the day, so far no complaints.


This is the view I wake up to each morning

Sentana is named after the owner's 3 year old son, he comes around and watches me play, (this happens at home too). Slowly but surely he's getting closer every visit and likes it when I play "Pink Panther".
The house only has two chairs both of which have arms making it difficult to play a sax, so I (ahem) improvised with the bedside drawer cabinet. You may notice I play without a neck strap, resting the sax on the seat, this way there is no weight on my neck, which is rather important for holding my head up. I do get up and stretch every 15 minutes, also essential.
This little sentient being landed on my porch, sort of shows off the vibrancy of Bali, as does the dragon fruit below. I asked a lady in the supermarket what these were like, she said "pretty tasteless".


They look beautiful and at only $1 each I bought one.
No complaints from me they are now regulars in my grocery basket.


This is another matter, I'm getting visits in the night, so far it's eaten my soap, opened and eaten boxes of matches and knocked things off the shelves. The local way of trapping rats is to spread on a piece of ply some very sticky, superglue and sprinkle some food on it. We had a near miss with a lot of hair and skin left behind, we will see if it comes to a sticky end. Update - yes he did, I won't post a photo though, your nature is too delicate!
The American Jazz singer invited me to play some sax on her latest CD which is being recorded in a local studio, and this is Lloyd from the Cotswalds in UK who is doing the studio mixing.

This marked the day I lost a screw out of my Soprano saxophone due to me wheeling the sax case around the bumpy streets of Ubud, and so far I haven't found a replacement.
At Bali Buddha, well known in Ubud for its restaurant and shop, this is their free carrier bag which caught my eye.
Just your standard Bali entrance way, so lovely,

This week I noticed a lot of preparation for some upcoming event at the Ubud Palace. It was a very special funeral and I will cover it more fully in my next blog, but here are a few teasers. 

This is a lot of Bull - adora..bull!

The Bali equivalent of NZ number 8 wire is string and bamboo.

Stairway to Heaven on a Pentatonic scale.

Lets face it, you're a devil, really!

This for me sums up Bali. Incredible art, motorbikes and tourists all in abundance.



Till my next Blog

Namaste

Jimu


Saturday, December 03, 2011

Perth....No Worries Mate

Hello All ,
It's been some time since I last posted one of my Visionari blogs.

Since returning from my last foray in Europe (unexpected adventures in broken bones) I've escaped the ferocious New Zealand spring and it's incessant ride on lawn mowing at Rosedale!


This will no doubt be my first job when I return from Aussie! Below is the new covered in "SheepYards Gardens"...more taming awaits me there too!


Christine has once again been sent to Perth, Australia on work duties, so I/ we.... decided to have a pre-Christmas break across the ditch.


Getting to Perth was not without it's challenges,  I had booked my flights through the Flight Centre travel agents. My tickets were under the name of Jimu (made sense to me, at the time, when the travel agent asked my name)...but when I got to the check in desk at the airport, as it was an international flight, my tickets had to match the name on my passport (James Robert), so I missed the connecting flight from Auckland and caught a later one! Left my Olympus camera on the Nelson-Auckland flight, so not such a great start to this holiday!

This poster welcomed me in the Sydney Airport gents toilet......... an insight into the Aussie humor.


Anyway getting into Perth and met by Christine...it was all worth it!
We are staying very near the city across from the Barrack Street Ferry and I take the 7 minute journey each day when going into town.



Perth weather is hot and windy, the locals seem to start their day very early (5-6-7am) with many running, cycling, walking, before the heat of the day. After their day....the pubs and Tab's are heavily frequented. 

 

In the city centre The Hay Street Mall has this Percy Button statue. A famous Perth Busker (acrobat) in the 1920's who was murdered, I put on my clown face and hat and busked happily thinking it won't happen in the same place to another busker!

I spent quite a bit of time in the Perth Mac Store getting advice from the Mac Genius's in the store.
Pretty impressive place with all the vibe and excitement! The assistants  meet you with iPads in there hand confirming your booking appointment....I was taken by one of the assistants style as she twirled her iPad before the next customer, much like a gunslinger would with his colt 45in the wild west!

I also visited the WA Museum, which has a visiting exhibition from the British Museum called "Extraordinary Stories"
Extraordinary Stories from the British Museum





After this I headed down to Fremantle on the train.  Freo as the locals call it, is hosting the ISAF World Sailing Championships, which is also a qualifier and run up to next years London Olympics, so there are 80 teams participating.


I walked into Didgeridoo Breath, a shop selling digeridoos (what else!) and met an Iranian (Jimi) and Japanese (Sanshi) and had a blow in the shop.... the place was jumping.....even the guy on the till was joining in!




















In Market Street behind Gino's cafe was a street party and I met and chatted to Horatio in front of his mural wall.


And John (Johannes) in his electric bath.....Freo is the Takaka equivalent of Perth...and it shows!

 
I watched the sun disappear into the sea at Bathers Beach, Kidogo Arthouse Gallery had a special joint aborigine/white man Exhibition and live music as the night slowly sneaked in!

 



I managed to find WA Circus School (their door was open and I wandered in) and returned later in the evening to sit in and learn a few juggling and hat tricks.
I tried the unicycles....got on a 6 ft Giraffe unicycle, was shown how to get on it...... then.....chickened out....the memory of my last overseas adventure, suggested caution!...This time I listened!!!!


The circus school was great to watch and their warm up exercises, show how incredibly fit you need to be for this occupation (and young too!) 
Thanks Adam for your hospitality and willingness to show an oldie a thing or two!


Today I'm taking it easy after spraining my ankle playing ball with Christine's nephew's kids who we visited yesterday.

Only 3 days till I make the homeward run!
Should be able to squeeze another Blog before this Aussie Adventure closes!

Cheers and Ciao

"No worries mate"...Perth Lingo for.....the NZ "She'll be right!"

Jimu